On being thorough: The stories told by spoil heaps

archives, Excavation, Henry Wellcome, Site history

As archaeologists we like to be thorough in what we do. Gone are the days of shovels, and the vast majority of us spend many hours carefully doing our jobs, generally while battling heat or rain and sometimes both at once. But no sensible archaeologist believes that we retrieve or keep “everything”. What is everything, anyway?

Henry Wellcome was so focused on being the best at whatever he did that he frequently missed the wood for the trees, or in this case the practicalities of archaeology. On the one hand, he wanted to collect multiples of everything to create a vast museum of humanity. This proved to be impossible, for reasons that were obvious to everyone but him. Equally, he was determined to preserve everything on the field. You might think that this was rather noble of him, but as always the story is much darker.

Whether he was busy with his museum or his dig, he did not much care how the objectives were achieved as long as he got his way. In practice, it meant making life downright impossible for many people. On the field, he instituted a series of punishments for anyone caught throwing away even the most innocuous of body sherds (and he had a series of punishments for all sorts of perceived infractions). The harsher penalties were directed towards the Sudanese workers, not the Europeans and Americans. One might think he was simply trying to be careful, but he happily ignored many of the basic field conventions of the time and his workers brought to light a staggering amount of burials. The aim was to collect as much as possible, driven by ideas of a grand narrative that would change the world and show him as a champion of science and knowledge.

The mega museum of humanity never happened. After his death, plenty of objects were sold off or sent to a number of museums in the U.K. and beyond – yes there was that much material and it was stored in multiple warehouses. The Jebel Moya material was also dispersed. Some of it was outright discarded by Addison and Kirwan while they prepared the site report. Allegedly they discarded body sherds but then a number of decorated sherds turned up in leafy Middlesex. The mystery was solved by Martin Biddle. Turns out they had sent the sherds to be destroyed but an enterprising landscape gardener used them as foundation debris for garden paths.

Going through the Wellcome archives, it is clear that Henry demanded perfectionism from everyone. He also craved ownership over knowledge, whether it relates to pharmaceuticals or archaeology. He went about the latter by essentially throwing money at the project, coupled with a long list of demands. He liked to give the impression that he got his own way, especially on the field. Till now it was clear that he did not always get his own way, albeit nobody dared defy him openly. I wonder what he would have made of Addison and Kirwan’s decision.

This season, though, we realised that people found ways to defy him on the field. It’s funny – reading Oric Bates’ personal diary it’s clear that archaeologists found him very trying. Duncan MacKenzie found it impossible to deal with Wellcome and spent much of his time at Sagadi and Dar el Mek and like many others did not last beyond one season at Jebel Moya. But this year we realised that Wellcome was also defied on the field. We knew where many of the old spoil heaps were located (incidentally folks, please mark these clearly in your own work – future archaeologists will thank you and raise a glass in your honour). But this season a number of them were exposed as a result of rain and erosion. And what did we find? Defiance. That’s what we found.

Here’s one of the old spoil heaps. Note the huge amount of archaeological material – animal bones, pot sherds and much more. The amount of material is staggering. In all honesty, I could not help but smile wryly when I saw it. Part of me is sad at the amount of information that has been lost, particularly when it comes to faunal remains. The more practical part of me selected a number of objects to use in the reference collection and the community museum.

The more time I spend working at Jebel Moya, the more I learn about the Wellcome excavations, Wellcome himself and the history of the Anglo-Egyptian Sudan. And of course it is impossible to do archaeology in Sudan (and many other places!) without dealing with the British Empire. At a time when there is a growing far right and pro imperialist narrative, I am rather pleased to see that part of the story is told via the spoil heap.

The current expedition is led jointly by archaeologists from UCL, the University of Khartoum and NCAM. It is made possible by the generous support of the British Institute for Libyan and Northern African Studies. More information about their very valuable work can be found here.

A DAY AT JEBEL MOYA: THEN AND NOW

Excavation, Gallery, Media, Social, The site

Recently, I gave a talk about Jebel Moya and Henry Wellcome (should be online at some point), and as part of that talk we showed a video filmed in 1912-13. You can read more about the video here. The Filming Antiquity link above gives a very good break down of the video and the technical details. I thought it would be fun to compare a day then and now.

Here is the surviving video (c) Wellcome Collection. Credit: A day at Gebel Moya, season 1912-13 – free to watch.

The black and white images are screenshots from the video.

Now, our day starts early – usually whenever the sun rises. By around 6am we are ready to go. While most people sleepily gather their things, I’m generally fuelling up on coffee. We live in the village, rather than in camps up on the mountain. Our walk takes us past a number of houses and sleepy cattle. I really do love and miss the morning greetings… Tamam? Tamam! All is well, good morning to you too, yes it’s another great day. The climb up the mountain is easy, though I’m very adept at tripping over boulders. Our Sudanese friends are always the first up, because they have super speed powers.

Then and Now

We then plonk our stuff in the House of Boulders, have a team brief and off we go to work. No day is ever the same. I spend my time in the company of skeletons, the rest of us are scattered across the trenches.

Excavation: Then and Now

At around 11, we have ‘breakfast’ (I suppose the trendy word is brunch). This is brought up the mountain, together with any supplies we erm might have forgotten. We have our food in the House of Boulders – generally the delicious beans, eggs, bread – protein and carbs is the way to go. After a rest, it’s back to work.

Relaxing in the House after a good plate of ful

The excavation day tends to end around 2-2:30pm, but really it depends on how hot it gets. Then we wander back down, this time lugging heavy boxes full of pottery and other remains. Then it’s time for a rest, lounging about and chatting with everyone and a quick and rudimentary bucket shower (same method applies for laundry). It’s a good time to catch up with everyone in the village.

The rest of the day is spent on post excavation and we work till late – sometimes till 9pm. We have to process all our material, document everything, digitize documentation, prep our boxes for the next day and deal with logistics. The logistics bit involves Mike and Ahmed (the co-directors), Abbas (who oversees the site year round) and the NCAM inspector. It may sound exciting but it involves stuff like ordering buckets, going through food supplies and all that glamorous stuff. Work is broken by dinner (another delicious communal meal prepared by the wonderful women at Jebel Moya).

The village, delicious dinner

In between, we do a number of things – including spending time with the villagers, sharing our finds, activities with children and going around households to talk about our work. I especially love this part – it’s a good opportunity to meet everyone. People always have many questions and it should be noted that women are especially busy, so us going round is helpful.

Later in the evening, Mike and I really love joining everyone outside. The night skies are beautifully clear – you can see the Milky Way in all its glory. It’s a great time to unwind, watch the skies, chat with everyone and (in my case) keep everyone entertained while trying to avoid mosquitoes.

HENRY WELLCOME’S TEAPOT

Excavation, Gallery, Henry Wellcome, Material culture, Media, Site history, The site

Archaeology is a delight, it has a habit of presenting you with surprises at the oddest of times. A week after we arrived, after a very long day of digging, the wonder that is Jebel Moya offered us another surprise: Henry Wellcome’s teapot. Put the kettle on and I’ll tell you the story.

Fath el Rahman is one of the villlage’s respected elders. He is our gracious host. Despite a busy job in Sennar, he always finds the time to see how we are doing and to answer our many questions. We spent a very happy couple of hours looking at pictures from the days of Henry Wellcome. Fath identified every rock in every photograph. Later that day, he showed us the teapot.

Fath sat down and told me the story.

Fath’s great grandfather was an expedition cook, part of Henry Wellcome’s vast camp. Wellcome had always intended to return to Sudan after the First World War, but alas this was not to be. Wellcome died in 1936 and by 1938 Uribe had packed up and left the Sudan for the last time. The plaque in the House of Boulders serves as a poignant reminder of those days.

We do not know what happened to the vast camp, or its extent in 1938. We do know, however, that nothing ever gets wasted in Sudan. Fath’s great grandfather appears to have kept the teapot as a memento. It has been stored safely for all these years, and it is not used to make tea (of which a lot is consumed in Sudan). The teapot is treasured as a memory of the expedition, it is an object of admiration and an excellent conduit for reminiscing and telling stories.

You may be tempted to make a dent in the romance by asking if this is really Henry’s teapot. Having spent many hours trawling through the archives, I can confidently say that anything and everything at the camp belonged to Henry – so in that sense it most definitely is his teapot. Besides, it bears the name of the village and the logo that Henry himself designed. It was used on all correspondence relating to Jebel Moya and at some point he struck a bronze pendant bearing the design.

Henry Wellcome’s teapot is now part of the history of Jebel Moya. In the 21st century, I am very lucky to have a standing invitation to drink coffee with Fath and his beautiful family.